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Framing our small house

Tara Miller
Dec 31, 2016
4 min read

We started framing the first floor right after the flooring was laid down. Since we used 2x6 tongue and groove as our underlayment and flooring it needed to be down before we could raise the walls. However, since our finished flooring was installed this made bracing a challenge. Typically 1x4 and 2x4s are used to braced framed walls as they go up and these braces are nailed down to the underlayment as the walls are braced from the inside. But we could not just nail into our finished floor so we got creative. Most of the bracing was done from the outside, we would screw a longer board to the rim joist and then extend it up and brace to it above the rim joist. I’ll point it out in our pictures as we go. From my drawings I created a dimensioned framing drawing which mapped out each wall, opening and window size so framing could be done easily.

Framing plan: I later learned it is easier to have all measurements in inches. All walls and openings are mapped out.

You can see our creative bracing here. It is a 2x10 screwed to the rim joist and then to the framed wall. And that's my dad showing his brute strength.

We started with the front wall which will feature the front door and three windows. Next, we framed the left side wall with two small windows for the stairs and bathroom. Each of these walls was framed laying down then had the 1x4 cross brace screwed on top and then raised. Once raised and leveled the cross brace would be tightened and marked. The wall would be braced with a 2x12 or 2x10 (that we will use later) that was screwed to the rim joist and then screwed to the framed wall. The top plated were then added to further secure the walls. Once all of the exterior walls were up, we added headers of two 2x10s laminated with a piece of ½” plywood. Headers went over each exterior door and windows. After all of the walls were up and secured, the 1x4 cross braces were removed and the between the marks was removed and the 1x4 was placed back in its new recessed place and screwed again. This was done one at a time and the cross braces were recessed so the siding could lay flush on the studs.

Three walls framed and ready for the last. This wall is being placed and then will be secured to the random 2x10 sticking up on the right side of the image.

Next, we moved onto the interior walls which were between the kitchen and the bedroom, under the stairs and bathroom. A header was also made for the bathroom door since it is a load bearing wall. A 2x4 header serves for the bedroom door since it is not a load bearing wall.

Kitchen is framed with the interior wall on the left between the kitchen and bedroom.

Here is the bathroom all framed out. The wall closest to the camera is 2x6 and will house the drains and vents for both bathrooms.

Here is the first floor all framed except for the stairs which need to be supported on the second floor as well. We are starting on the second floor joists with the first half up.

Garrett laying down the second floor. You can see the opening for the top of the stairs at the front of the image.

Before we could frame the second floor the joists and flooring needed to be finished. We built the second floor in 2 halves. One half would go from the front to the back over the living room and kitchen, level with the opening for the stairs. The second half would go over the entry, leave a blank for the stairs then continue over the bathroom and over the bedroom. Our flooring would still run in the diagonal but rotated 180 degrees. When the flooring was complete, I draw up another framing plan for the second floor. This mapped all the windows, their height above the floor, the wall heights (the roof pitch changes about halfway back) and the roof pitch. Garrett draw each roof pitch on the floor to use as a guide (this will be sanded away later before staining) which was helpful with pieces were bumped and to get a steady measurement. We started with the smaller 4’ walls at the front and then moved to the 80” walls in the back before creating the pitched walls in the front and back.

Once these walls were up, we were ready to place the roof ridge beam and start the rafters. Check back for the beginnings of a roof.

You can find the original house plans at The small House Catalog: Beekeeper's Bungalow.

The second floor front walls and on back wall is up.

Framing a 80" back wall on the second floor. The 4' front walls don't have windows.

The upper right side frame walls are up. You can see how we used 2x4s and 1x4s to brace theses walls to the second floor rim joist. We also wrapped the first floor to protect our precious floors from rain.